Carnuntum and the Living Roman Heritage

The Danube Limes once represented the northern border of the Roman Empire. With a length of 2400 kilometers, it encompassed six Roman provinces in the 2nd century AD. The border was heavily fortified against barbarian invaders of all kinds, by 13 legionary fortresses and 160 fortifications, located 10 to 30 kilometers apart. The “segment” on the territory of today’s Bulgaria is relatively familiar to me, after all, I lived for 2 years at the entrance to the Sexaginta Prista in Ruse; I have seen other Limes treasures as well, but now I want to tell you about Carnuntum.

Carnuntum was the capital of the Roman province of Upper Pannonia and one of the four legionary fortresses on the Austrian Limes, located today on the border with Slovakia. During its time, the city reached the serious figures of 50,000 inhabitants and 10 sq. km of territory. In 308 AD, a key imperial forum was held here to determine the rulers of the Eastern and Western Roman Empires – one emperor (with the title Augustus) and one deputy (called Caesar). The Caesar of the Western Empire became Constantine the Great, and as a result of this choice, the following years led Christianity on the path that turned it into one of the most widespread religions in the world. The finds show the city’s steady growth.

This, however, is not the reason I am telling you about Carnuntum. The reason is experimental archaeology. With its help, the owners of the site have made wonderful reconstructions, reflecting the state of the city in the 4th century AD, shortly before it was devastated by an earthquake and finally abandoned a century later. Wherever possible, they used the old materials from the excavations, and the new ones were extracted, processed and included in the construction and assembly works using tools that were in use 16 centuries ago. Even the tiles, bricks and roof covers were baked in a reconstructed Roman oven. The result is amazing.

The first restored site on South Street is the House of the Olive Oil Merchant. A wealthy man, apparently, as olive oil, wine and the garum fish sauce were the most important bodily fluids of the Roman Empire. The commercial part is shown with the amphorae, pots and wheeled vehicles, as well as the owner’s desk. Not much has been preserved from the living quarters; however, we see what the Roman fullonica, or laundry, looked like. In its domestic version, there are not many rinsing basins, but only one. It’s a good thing though, they didn’t show us the process itself, because the fabrics were not soaked with soap, but with urine.

The neighboring house belongs to Lucius Maticeius Clemens and is the first reconstructed building from ancient Carnuntum. Based on its size and the finds, it can be judged that the owner belonged to the upper middle class, which means that he was probably also a merchant, presumably of fabrics and textiles. As a smaller accompanying business, archaeologists have identified the production of ceramics, which is judged by the two small kilns in the front yard of the house on the side of the street – where commercial and business areas were usually located.

The house has an inner courtyard, with attached kitchen, a living room and a commercial room, and from there you can go out into the garden. In the commercial room, the hosts have exhibited various fabrics and samples. In the kitchen there is a stove, but also a furnace, through which the underfloor heating in the living room was powered. It has been restored to full functionality at the moment. And the living room itself is equipped with the typical furniture of that time – comfortable armchairs with small wooden tables, a small home altar and a large couch. Quite comfortable, by the way, I tried it.

On the way to the other reconstructed buildings, we pass through the so-called Domus Quarta, in which we see the largest preserved (albeit partial) floor mosaic in Carnuntum. It is a pity that so little remains; judging by everything, the mosaics must have been quite beautiful. Experimental archaeologists have done what they could with the presentation of the remains of the house, but they are unable to say more about the possible owners, except that they were clearly wealthy. It is assumed that the mosaic room itself was a summer dining room or living room, since there is no trace of heating.

In the complex along the North Street of Carnuntum, there is the most luxurious building – the so-called Villa Urbana – and only partially restored. Here too, there is no information about the owner, except that he was from the richest class. This is judged by many things, but above all by the huge banquet hall with its own underfloor heating, high-quality frescoes and a domed apse at the back. The surrounding rooms contain a study, private rooms (perhaps for a break from the hearty meal?) and a kitchen with a clay oven. The inner courtyard with the stored wood for the ovens and the barrel for collecting rainwater is shown too.

I personally was most pleased with the restored thermae or public baths. The hosts didn’t just show the stoves with the stored wood, the entire heating system (the hypocaust) is fully functional! Both the floors and the water in the pools are heated. The central place in the thermae is occupied by the so-called basilica thermarum, or the hall for relaxation and conversations. With all its loungers, armchairs, lockers for shoes and clothes, an exit to the exercise room and a mezzanine with massage couches. Of course, with all the corresponding decoration.

Adjacent to this hall are the traditional Roman bath-rooms: frigidarium – the cold room with an unheated pool, tepidarium – the warm room with a temperature of 25-30 degrees C, and caldarium – the hottest room with a temperature of about 35 degrees C and a warm pool. And I can tell you that the caldarium was really hot. As well as the sudatorium, which is the Roman equivalent of a dry sauna. It is worth mentioning the apodyterium, or changing room, also equipped with underfloor heating; after all, the temperatures in the Northern Limes were not like in the Southern one, in the province of Africa.

There is so much more to see and experience in Carnuntum. The amphitheater and ceremonial gate, which are outside the tourist site. The museum, located miles away, on the other side of the former city. The cafe, which serves “Roman cuisine”. The virtual reality, which will transport you centuries back in time. But most of all, the opportunity to touch with your own hands the Roman heritage brought to life . To sit on the latrine, or Roman toilet. To stand at the counter of the thermopolium (the Roman fast food restaurant, in the top photo). And let me tell you, all the food products there are real, and very fresh. Excellent job, my dear colleagues!