The Surprising Museum in Paphos

Cyprus has somehow become a traditional seaside destination in our family-and-friends circles. Before Covid, it always remained on the future list, and now we are there almost every summer. Mostly in our favorite southwestern corner of Paphos, but also in other spots like the capital of Nicosia. I just returned from another summer visit to the island and I want to share with you that I finally managed to get to the archaeological museum in Paphos. Before, it was either closed, under renovation, or we preferred the beach and other similar circumstances arose. Well, now, as they say, I got it.

The museum turned out to be surprising both with its small size and location away from all the other tourist spots in the city, and with the incredible heritage exhibited inside. I assume you already know that I am a maniac on this topic, so you will believe me when I tell you that they have some really unique things. Why they decided to hide them away from the tourist flows, I have no explanation. As is my habit, I plan to choose some highlights from the elusive (until recently) museum in Paphos to introduce you to.

Here, for example, is the slightly sinister artifact in the top photo of this publication; it is a very ordinary Roman cup, from the 1st century AD. In the photo below, you see not clay pots for storing daily provisions, but funeral urns, made of lead. From the same Roman period. This is what scientists call “burial by cremation” to distinguish it from the other, “burial by inhumation”. I have always deeply suspected them of deliberately composing incomprehensible or shocking terms to just confuse innocent amateurs.

To be honest, for me the more intriguing discoveries in the archaeological museum in Paphos were from earlier eras. For example, writing. It turns out that even before the Hellenistic period, that is, we are talking about the 11th-3rd centuries BC, people in these places used a writing system called Cypriot syllabic. It has not yet been deciphered properly, because it reflects one (or even more!) already lost languages. That is, Cypriot syllabic is what our scientists called it; what the ancient Cypriots themselves would have called it, we have no idea.

A very characteristic element of this pre-Hellenistic culture in Cyprus are the sanctuaries, where statuettes of deities and heroes are offered. The latter are rarer, especially when they are male. The male statuettes mostly depict warriors, in the appropriate equipment and often with their favorite horse. I had seen such before, but in the surprising museum in Paphos I found something new – a warrior riding a three-headed horse. The meaning escapes me, unless the author intended to depict three heroes with three horses, but subsequently got lazy.

While we’re on the subject of ceramics, I want to bring to your attention the following collection of amazing clay artifacts. Their intricate yet elegant forms, achieved at a time when the potter’s wheel had not yet been invented, are amazing. It’s also amazing how much extra time the makers would have spent decorating their products, given that human life was quite short at that time. And the most amazing thing is that all of this dates back to the 11th century BC.

A special display in the archaeological museum in Paphos offers a comparison between male and female burials from this same archaic period. The men’s burials focus on weapons, shields, knives and various tools, accompanied by some simple and rather practical ornaments and clay vessels for everyday use. The women’s offerings include vessels and household utensils, but also expensive gold ornaments and money. Did they know even back then that women were better at managing the family budget?

Speaking of women, I remembered those sanctuaries that I was telling you about a moment ago. I mentioned that male ritual statuettes were much rarer. The most numerous are female figures with hyperbolized feminine forms, symbolizing fertility in all its meanings. Made not only of clay; the oldest ones are actually made of stone, a local breed of steatite. Their shape is quite simplified – cross-shaped figures with outstretched arms. The attempts to emphasize female forms are visible here too.

I’ll end with something I’ve never seen anywhere else except in the museum in Paphos. Part of traditional Roman medicine, with all its scalpels, scissors, awls, bronze samplers and other sinister-looking medical instruments. I’m talking about oddly shaped clay vessels with a spout for pouring liquids. The explanation given was that they were the ancient equivalent of a hot water bottle in bed, or an electric heating blanket if you will. Very precisely tailored to the part of the body they were supposed to warm. I’ll leave it to you to draw comparisons with modern medicine.