Why Uppsala?

Recently, I had the pleasure and chance to get to know the European North, its culture and history. I did not expect to end up in Sweden, but for over an year now I have been living more or less in the relatively unknown city of Gävle on the Baltic coast. The good thing about it is that it is calm and nice, and there are much more famous neighbors around. For example, Uppsala. I have been there several times now, in different seasons. I can offer you a few reasons to stop by, if you have the chance.

The so-called Gamla Uppsala or Old Uppsala is located outside the modern city, but it is there that the fourth largest city in Sweden was founded. The oldest visible heritage are the burial mounds, which were once believed to be the work of the god Freyr, and in which his royal heirs were buried. This is according to a saga from 1230, which places the old Freyr at the beginning of the new era. Excavations from the last century, however, date the tombs to around 600 AD. The fact is that it is still not known who is buried there, especially since in the East Mound, male grave goods were placed alongside female bones.

In the adjacent museum, you will be able to see the burial goods, which are not in a very good condition, having been burned at the stake together with the important deceased. However, you will have the opportunity to learn more about life during that era. You will see a model of a typical Royal Hall (the royal palace according to the standards of old), which on a normal day was simply the home of the royal family; during visits of important guests it became a reception throne room, and on holidays it was a dining room for the national feast given by the king. You will also be able to write your name in runes on an improvised tombstone.

If you’re lucky, you might hit an important historical date for modern Vikings. For example, Easter, which somehow coincides with a holiday of the old gods. Then you’ll find yourself in the middle of a group of enthusiasts, conscientiously branded in the style of the era, who perform rituals in Swedish that you don’t understand. We somewhat understood the praising of the four directions of the world, as well as the kneeling in reverence to the Earth. The music and songs performed on ancient instruments were probably also important, but we didn’t manage to get involved there.

The church of Old Uppsala is not to be missed. It has several remarkable features. The first is that it dates back to 1273 and is a direct successor to the first cathedral of the first Archbishopric in Sweden. The second is that the infamous Mr. Celsius is buried there, whom we all think of when we catch a cold or when a summer like the one of 2024 hits us. Third, its architecture incorporates an old Viking rune stone, which is very typical of Swedish churches. Last but not least, the building has a specific charm.

The most famous place of modern-day Uppsala is the Cathedral. Today it is the seat of the Swedish Archbishop and, according to Wikipedia, is the tallest church in the Nordic world. Notable personalities are also buried here, starting with King Eric IX, considered the patron saint of the nation, continuing with King Gustav Vasa, remembered among other things for the fastest-sinking ship of Vasa, and going to Carl Linnaeus, the father of the taxonomy of the living world. The Cathedral has a children’s corner and an Eastern Orthodox chapel with a Bulgarian icon.

Uppsala Cathedral was the venue for all royal coronations until the end of the 19th century. The venue for subsequent royal banquets was Uppsala Castle, which stands on the highest point in the city. It was built by the same King Gustav Vasa in 1549. His successors added and changed things. As often happens, a devastating fire broke out in the city at the beginning of the 18th century, so most of the important buildings were rebuilt. Today, the Castle is home to the City Art Gallery and the Vasaborgen Museum, which displays the remains of the original 16th century castle.

Uppsala is also home to the oldest university in the Scandinavian countries. It has its own museums and a botanical garden named after its most famous professor – the aforementioned Carl Linnaeus. The Gustavianum Museum is located in the first and oldest university building, and contains the “museum historical collections”, which somehow also included Egyptian mummies. The Museum of Evolution owns the largest collection of dinosaur fossils in Scandinavia. We should also mention the University Library of Carolina Rediviva, which also has an exhibition hall.